Home of the Winter Cyclist
And Other Crazy People.
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And Other Crazy People. |
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ICEBIKE Tights!!
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Pamela Blalock
I live in a suburb of Boston, but I manage to ride my bike year round, with a few days off here and there, when a severe snow storm has overwhelmed the plows and the roads are still covered in ice and snow, and I'm too busy x-c skiing to think about riding.
A lot of people have ask me how I can possibly ride through a New England winter. Dressing properly for the weather certainly has a great deal to do with my enjoyment of it, but I have to admit that I also really get a kick out of the looks on people's faces when I ride my bike into work in 5F degree temps or do a century with snow flurries on and off throughout the day.
This is my eighth winter here, after moving from a much milder climate in North Carolina. I've changed a few things over the years, but this is what works for me currently. Hopefully it will help others who just can't fathom spending another minute on an indoor trainer.
In this article, I will talk in general terms, but will also include specific brands when talking about what I use.
I'll start with clothing. One of the biggest mistakes that people make is overdressing. Exercising generates heat. Clothes that wick moisture away from the body will keep you dryer and therefore warmer. I try to stay away from cotton. When cotton gets wet, it stays wet. I dress in layers, so I can regulate temperature throughout the ride. As it warms up, I can remove a layer, and when it starts to cool down again when the sun goes down, I can start adding clothes again. Zippers are another essential for temperature regulation. Turtlenecks with zip fronts and jackets with pit zips can allow a rider to be comfortable through a varied range of temperatures. And of course there's the zipper on the front of the jacket!
Silk is a natural fiber with great insulating properties. It makes a great base layer. I often use silk for glove and sock liners. There are lots of synthetics available that wick moisture away from the skin and dry quickly.
Polar fleece is another great fabric for winter sports. It retains only 1/10 of it's weight in water, and insulates as well as wool. It comes in 4 different thicknesses (100, 200, 300, and 400), with the lightest making a good base layer and the heaviest far more than anything I'd ever need for cycling. I do have a little sanity left! There is also bipolar fleece, which combines too layers to provide additional warmth and wind protection.
Recently fleece was combined with technology from the folks at Gore to produce a windblocker fleece, and I must say it is the greatest new thing to come to winter cycling in years. I've recently bought new gloves, jackets, vests and pants all with the windblock feature. I'm still waiting for socks, but I'm sure they will be available soon!
Gore-Tex, Entrant and other technologies used in rainwear make good outside layers. In addition to keeping rain out, these fabrics are also very good at stopping the wind. I always have a rain jacket and rain pants with me in the winter, since New England weather is so unpredictable, and I don't ever want to be caught in a 35 degree rainstorm without protection! The coldest cold you'll ever experience is rainy 35 F, far colder than dry -5 F.
Enough with the generalities.
I have two pair of shoes, one for summer, and another pair, one size larger for winter. This way I can use thick socks or heavy insole inserts. Many people make the mistake of using the same shoes and trying to stuff extra socks into them in the winter. This restricts circulation and makes the feet even colder. My summer shoes are mostly mesh - for coolness. My winter shoes have no ventilation.
I currently use a pair of wool felt insoles from the great winter boot folks at Sorrel. (I'm considering using one of their boot liners for really frigid conditions. I need to determine if I really have enough room).
My warmest experience with socks has been with those made by Thorlo. In fact, I wear them all the time in the winter (biking, skiing, hiking, to work)
For the final layer, I use Gore-Tex booties. These do a great job of keeping my feet relatively warm and dry, especially when I treat them with Nikwax every few months. Nikwax makes a waterproofing treatment for breathable clothing which you wash in. It really will revitalize old raingear.
I avoid neoprene totally. Every time I have tried it, I just end up sweaty, wet and cold. Some people tell me it works well for shorter rides, but I have had no luck with it, and avoid it completely. Anybody want to buy a pair of neoprene gloves, socks, face mask and shoe covers? (See I have tried it!)
But this isn't always enough. Sometime it gets downright cold!
I have found cross-country ski booties on top of my regular booties work very well for really cold conditions (< 10F). I found some in a grab box in a ski shop, and have recently seen them in REI catalogs and x-c ski specialty mail order catalogs.
| There are various types of foot warmers available. For less
than $2 a pair, you can get these shake-em to activate them hand and feet warmers. Locally
I have found these at LL Bean's, REI, EMS, and various skiing and sporting goods shops.
There are specific ones made for toes that are small enough to fit in a shoe comfortably.
They last about 5 hours and are terrific. I keep a couple of extras in my saddle bag
throughout the winter for emergencies. I have given them away often and every recipient
has always wanted to know where to get more. A (non-disposable) option is the (rechargeable) battery powered heated insole made by Hotronics. They can be found at ski shops and other outdoor shops. I decided to spoil myself at Christmas a few years ago and purchased a pair. These are fabulous. They last 8 hours on the lowest setting, 4 hours on 2, 2 on 3, and 1 on 4. I purchased a second set of batteries to use on centuries, so I could use the higher settings at times. I use these a lot in the winter and definitely got my money's worth. I clip the battery pack onto my booties. It's about the size of two c-cells. When it gets really messy out, but not good enough for x-country skiing, I have been known to use my Sorrel boots on platform pedals (good to -40F) for the commute and shorter social rides (like 30 miles)! |
If my feet get too cold on a ride (or any part of me, for that matter) I stop at a convenience store (you can't always find a coffee shop in the middle of nowhere) for a warm up break. I remove most of my outer layer clothing.. I get a cup of coffee or hot chocolate to appease the clerk :) as well as warming myself. I get my shoes off and wiggle my toes to get the circulation going again. Unlike running or x-c skiing, in cycling the feet don't get move around a lot. Those big coolers that hold beer and cokes, blast heat out the vents in the bottom. Standing next to those can help warm cold feet. It's important not to stay inside wearing all your warm clothes, because the body will adjust and then feel cold when going back outside. If riding in a hilly or mountainous area never stop at the top for any more time than it takes to add another layer. You will be sorry! Sweat from climbing will leave you cold and wet, and then flying down a hill afterwards won't do a thing to get you warm again. In may seem hard, but try to plan rest stops at the bottom of a hill, so you can use the climbing to warm back up! And eat. You are burning a lot of calories to keep warm and you will need fuel. If you are doing a long ride (like a century) plan for longer and more frequent breaks than you would in the summer. |
But back to clothing.
For hands, I start with silk glove liners. Then I add either mittens or gloves, depending on the temps. I use mittens for colder weather, but since some degree of fine finger control is lost, if it's over 40F, I go with gloves. The glove liners are really handy for times when I have to remove my outer gloves to do something that the bulk won't allow me to do otherwise, like make adjustments, fix a chain, etc. My favorite new pair of gloves is fleece with windblock. I'ver been able to use these alone in very cold temps. If it's wet, I add a Gore-Tex shell on top of the gloves.
Now to the head. This is one of the most important parts to keep warm. Since the body protects the vitals parts first, if the head isn't warm, it will steal heat from the extremities to protect the brain. This is why it is often said, "If your feet are cold, put on a hat."
I use Swix earmuffs (very thin - fit easily under helmet) or a lycra headband, a polar fleece face mask and a hat or helmet cover. I have a face mask that wraps around and Velcros in the back. I can pull it down easily for nose blowing and temperature adjusting. I have also used a silk balaclava with great luck too. I have new headwear that combines these things. It's called a shell-a-clava. It has a fleece part to go around the neck and ears (and face if you pull it up), and the top is lycra, so it fits under a helmet. I tend to use this for colder days. The neck warmer is too warm for me above freezing.
There are also Gore-Tex helmet covers available to help block some of the wind coming through those (wonderful in the summer) air vents in the helmet.
The final touch is a pair of ski goggles, for temps under about 20F. Much above that and they are too warm for me. I have clear ones since I commute at night. I don't have to deal with my glasses fogging up when I stop at traffic lights, and my eyes stay warm. And they only cost $25-$30.
OK, your head, hands and feet are warm, let's get to the rest of you.
I start with a wicking synthetic or light Polarfleece zippered turtleneck and bib shorts. The zipper in the turtleneck serves as a great temperature regulator. The bib shorts cover my back when I'm in the cycling position. Mine are ladies bibs and also cover the chest for additional warmth. For cold but dry days I'll add a pair of leg warmers before my outer bib tights. If it's wet I'll use my Gore-Tex bib rain pants instead of the leg warmers. I don't want to overdress, and I do still want to be able to move. I carry whatever I'm not wearing, since I never know when the weather may change. I then add a rain jacket with underarm zippers. Opening and closing these will also regulate the temperature very well.
I've recently started using a cycling cape as well. The really nice thing about the cape is that it covers my hands, so my gloves don't get wet if it's raining or snowing. A cape can be a bit unruly in high winds, but in moderate winds, it can work quite well (in the summer too) to keep one dry, especially when combined with fenders.
I do still have a Gore-Tex rain jacket and bib pants, and use them quite a bit in the winter, especially in windy and cold conditions. While bibs are really handy for staying warm, since you won't end up with part of your back exposed, it does take a little extra time to get in and out of them at bathroom stops, but for the added warmth, I don't mind.
I also carry (and wear if needed) a wool or fleece sweater or vest. If I have a mechanical problem or a flat, and will be outside for long, not riding and generating heat, I want additional layers against the cold. I have mentioned that I carry several things, so I should also mention that I have either a large saddle bag or small panniers on my bike in the winter. Better to be prepared than cold and miserable. If the temperature rises, I also want a place to discard excess clothing.
One last note about clothing is dress visibly. The sun is lower in the sky at this time of year and more likely to blind drivers. Make sure you can be seen! Although based on reactions by drivers on our commute route, I'm beginning to believe those bright yellow jackets are like camouflage!
OK, so we are dressed. Let's go look at the bike. Is it in top condition. I don't want to have to do bike maintenance on the side of the road in sub-freezing temperatures, so I do a thorough check to make sure everything works perfectly. I also tend to go with wider tires to avoid flats. I'd rather work a little harder riding than to change a flat in the cold. Fenders are worth their weight in gold in New England. I wouldn't think of doing a winter ride without them. And as usual, I carry enough tools to do minor roadside repairs, tire levers, tubes, wrenches, chain tool, etc.
Since I tend to ride my commute bike all winter, I always have lights on my bike. The days are much shorter, and a flat, mechanical problem or long break can result in a ride finishing after dark.
In the winter I choose my routes with extra care and I always have a bail-out plan. I tend to do smaller loops close to home, in case I need to bail out for some reason, like a blizzard, or a mechanical failure. I WILL go knock on a door, or call a friend or taxi (or AAA) if I find myself in trouble.
I try to ride with others on longer rides in the winter. First, because it's more fun, but also it's safer. You can watch out for each other, and signs of hypothermia, and you can send for help if necessary.
To avoid dealing with frozen water, I use a Camelbak, and keep the hose tucked inside my jacket when I'm not using it. Camelbak now sells a little hose insulator, which I have found very effective.
I often carry a small vacuum bottle of coffee. (These are available at outdoor shops and coffee shops and practically everywhere it seems) A flask covered in a sock fits a water bottle cage nicely, although I usually also secure mine with a toe strap. Sometimes a hot drink can really take the chill away, and your friends will be quite envious.
I try to keep my eyes open for ice on the roads. Black ice will get you on a bike, just as easily as it gets you in a car or on foot. One person asked me what I do on black ice, and I have to answer truthfully - sometimes I fall. But I'm usually wearing enough clothing that I don't get hurt. And I have had much better luck on ice on my bike than I have in my car. (Maybe practicing on rollers would help :)
| I had to leave this in here. I edit the article every year to update with whatever new stuff I'm using. Well last winter I fell and I did get hurt. I broke my collar bone. So we bought a recumbent trike (tandem actually). This significantly reduces (eliminates) the chances of tipping over on icy surfaces. So we hope to make it through this winter without breaking bones. I''ll also mention that my husband and I tandem, and as stoker, I find HE makes a great windscreen! |
Anyway this is how I prepare for cold weather rides ranging from a 17 mile commute, a 30 mile club ride, or a 100 mile ride in subfreezing temperatures. This is what works for me. Your mileage may vary!
Of course, there is one other option, that I've been seriously considering, which is to move to a warmer climate!