A common topic among ICEBIKERS who do longer winter rides in cold weather is how to
carry water without having it freeze. This invariably also leads to the discussion
of how much one really has to drink in winter.
Lets cover the latter first, because it answers one aspect of the "how to
carry" question.
It is the common consensus that in most commuting situations you don't need to drink at
all en-route, and many winter cyclists simply don't carry water. Most commuting
situations are under 30 minutes, well over 95% are under an hour - one way. Much
longer than 30 minutes and most folks just don't have the time to ride.
Most cyclists simply don't need to drink on short rides of 30 minutes or less when the
temperature is low and water loss is due solely to sweating due to exertion. In
summer, with the same level of exertion exacerbated by the sweating due to high ambient
temperature it might be different, (although many feel no need to drink on a short ride
even in summer).
The general consensus among ICEBIKERS seems to be that you generally need less water in
winter. This is not universally agreed upon, and perhaps is due to shorter rides in
winter. Nevertheless, most winter cyclists report drinking less in cold
temperatures.
However, longer rides in winter tax your body in the same way as summer rides, and you
need to replenish water. A strenuous afternoon outing would require hydration at any
temperature. Even at a moderate pace in mild temperatures, you can lose 3 to 4 liters of
water during 2 to 3 hours of exercise.
Carrying water in water bottles can work in winter on short rides, but after 45 minutes
or so in temperatures ten degrees below freezing you will find your water bottle mostly
frozen. So just about the time you decide you need it, it decides to freeze.
You can delay this by filling with warm or even hot water before you ride.
A common trick, recommended by cross country skiers such as Pete Hickey is to
put the bottle in the cage upside down. This keeps the outlet from freezing till the
bitter end, as the ice weighs less and floats to the top leaving the (slightly) warmer
water at the bottom.
However, for a several hour outing, its better to carry the water inside your
outer-most layer. Water bottles carried that way seldom freeze, but are less than
accessible and generally require stopping to drink.
That's way water pouches like the Camelback shown here are popular in
winter as well as summer. These pouches fit well under your jacket,
and they come in a variety of sizes and options from several companies.
The tube can be routed up under your jacket collar. The remaining problem is
keeping the "bite valve" and supply tube from freezing. Many ICEBIKERS
recommend blowing air back into the bladder after drinking thereby keeping the line clear
of water. You can tuck the bite valve inside your shirt if it does freeze and it
should thaw out (not to mention drip all over you).
Most bladder systems carry the equivalent of about three large size water bottles -
around 70 ounces - or two liters. That's said to be about enough for two hours of
heavy exercise in summer temperatures. It might last a little longer in winter, as
mentioned above, cyclists seem to need less water in winter.
The human body can really only absorb about a liter of water per hour and does a better
job of this if water is supplied in small amounts continuously rather then in large thirst
quenching gulps. The bladder system also helps in this regard as the bite valve
clips to your collar for quick access and is easy to operate even with lobster claw winter
cycling mitts on. You won't be tempted to delay drinking till you are thirsty - which is
too late.
You can find these "systems" in almost any bike store, and via mail order.
The name-brand versions seem to cost US$60 to $75. Lesser known brands can be
had for under $25 on sale.
Home of the Winter Cyclist
Water Bladder Systems